Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
